Guiyang’s Best Vegan Eats for a Plant-Based Weekend

Forget everything you thought you knew about Chinese food being a minefield of hidden oyster sauce and pork-laden broths. Guiyang, the cool, misty capital of Guizhou province, is quietly emerging as a paradise for the plant-based traveler. Nestled among lush, rolling hills and famous for its perpetual spring-like climate, this city offers more than stunning landscapes and minority culture; it’s a place where the very essence of the local cuisine—sour, spicy, fresh, and wildly inventive—aligns beautifully with a vegan ethos. This is not a city where you'll merely "get by" on salads. A weekend here is a full-throttle immersion into a food culture that celebrates wild herbs, fermented flavors, and mushrooms with a reverence that will make any plant-based heart sing. Let’s map out your ultimate vegan weekend in Guiyang.

Friday Evening: Dive into the Sour & Spicy Heart of Guizhou

Your culinary adventure begins the moment you land. Guizhou’s signature flavor profile, suan la (sour and spicy), is your best friend. It’s a tangy, pungent, mouthwatering foundation that’s often built from natural, plant-based ferments.

First Stop: The Unmissable *Sour Soup Fish* (Vegan Style)

No, you’re not missing out. While the famous suantangyu traditionally uses fish, the soul of the dish is the broth. Seek out forward-thinking restaurants or local vegan spots that master the vegan "fish" sour soup. The broth is a days-long fermentation of tomatoes, pickled chili peppers, and wild mountain ingredients, creating a complex, ruby-red liquid that is both refreshing and deeply warming. They’ll simmer this magical broth with wood-ear mushrooms, tofu, potato slices, bean sprouts, and perhaps some wheat gluten or king oyster mushrooms carved to mimic the texture of fish. Served in a steaming pot, it’s a communal, celebratory start to your trip. Pair it with a bowl of coarse-grain liangfen (cold mung bean jelly) dressed in a fiery chili oil, vinegar, and soy sauce—a classic Guiyang street snack that’s almost always accidentally vegan.

Wander Through the Night Markets

As dusk settles, head to Erqi Road or the bustling alleys around Jiaxiu Tower. The air fills with smoky, aromatic clouds. Here, your vegan radar must be on, but the rewards are immense. * Grilled Stinky Tofu: Don’t let the name deter you. This fermented tofu has a strong aroma but a magnificent, cheesy, umami flavor. Grilled over charcoal and topped with a mountain of chili powder, pickled radish, and cilantro, it’s a must-try. * Roasted Zhusun (Bamboo Shoots): Guizhou is bamboo country. Fresh, tender shoots are often roasted whole over open flames, peeled, and dipped in a simple, spicy dry rub. * Siwawa: This is a Guiyang exclusive. A thin, translucent rice wrapper acts as a pouch for a DIY mix of shredded raw vegetables like cucumber, radish, bean sprouts, and fried soybeans. You choose your sauce—go for the purely spicy and sour vegan options. It’s fresh, crunchy, and utterly delightful.

Saturday: A Day of Noodles, Monasteries, and Modern Vegan Vibes

Wake up to the sound of misty rain—common in Guiyang—and fuel up for a day of exploration.

Breakfast Like a Local: Noodle Alchemy

Guiyang runs on breakfast noodles. The key is knowing what to ask for. Find a busy noodle shop and order Changwang Mian. These are chewy, yellow noodles made with rice and bean starch. Crucially, ask for "su shi" (vegetarian) and "bu jia hun you" (no animal oil). The base is often a rich, savory soy bean and mushroom broth. Then, you hit the condiment bar—the true glory of Guizhou dining. Pile on fresh cilantro, pickled chili, fermented soybeans, roasted chili oil, vinegar, and a pinch of mala powder. You’ve just created a personalized, steaming bowl of vegan heaven for a few yuan.

Cultural Interlude: Hongfu Temple & A Mindful Lunch

Take a short trip to the serene Hongfu Temple on Qianling Mountain. As one of the most important Zen Buddhist monasteries in China, it offers not only peaceful forest paths and mischievous monkeys but also a profound connection to vegetarian culinary tradition. Their vegetarian dining hall is an experience. They often serve elaborate, multi-course zhai (Buddhist vegetarian) meals that masterfully use tofu, gluten, and root vegetables to create stunning, flavorful dishes that resemble meat in form but are purely compassionate in nature. It’s a quiet, mindful meal that nourishes both body and spirit.

Saturday Night: Guiyang's New Plant-Based Scene

After a day of tradition, discover Guiyang’s modern, conscious dining movement. In neighborhoods like Nanming Riverbank or near Guizhou University, a handful of dedicated vegan and vegetarian cafes have sprung up. * The Fully Vegan Bistro: These spots are a revelation. Imagine a plate of Gan Guo (dry pot) sizzling with lotus root, cauliflower, mushrooms, and vegan "beef" slices in a mala sauce. Or, a vegan interpretation of Guizhou-style tofu balls, lighter than air and served with a dipping sauce. They also offer fantastic vegan versions of local rice dishes and comforting soups. * The Specialty Drink: You cannot leave without trying Qianling Sparkling Water, the local mineral water, or a cup of Guiyang roasted tea. For something sweet, look for sour plum juice or a modern longan and red date tea from a vegan cafe.

Sunday: Market Treasures and the Art of *Doufu*

Your final day is for immersion and taking flavors home.

Morning Market Adventure

Visit a local wet market. It’s a sensory overload and a testament to Guizhou’s botanical wealth. You’ll see baskets overflowing with dozens of wild, foraged mushrooms (jun), some you’ve never seen before. There are heaps of fresh zhe'ergen (a fragrant root herb), various types of bamboo shoots, dark leafy greens, and an astonishing array of chili peppers and pickled vegetables. This is the source of the flavors you’ve been enjoying. It’s a living museum of the plant-based ingredients that define this region.

The Tofu Masterclass

Guiyang’s relationship with doufu (tofu) is an art form. For lunch, make it a tofu tour: 1. La Doufu: Smoked and dried tofu, often sold on skewers, with a dense, smoky flavor. 2. Doufu Nao (Tofu Pudding): Silken, custard-like tofu served in a warm, ginger-infused syrup (ask for the sweet version) or a savory spicy sauce. The sweet version is a classic, comforting snack. 3. Fried Tofu Balls: Crispy on the outside, soft and airy inside, perfect for a final street food snack.

Essential Tips for Your Plant-Based Weekend

• Language is Key: Learn or have these phrases handy on your phone: "Wo chi su." (I eat vegetarian.) "Zhege you rou, you nainai, you jidan ma?" (Does this have meat, dairy, or eggs?) "Qing yong zhiwu you." (Please use vegetable oil.)
• Embrace the Condiment Bar: This is your power to veganize almost any simple dish. A bowl of plain rice noodles or steamed veggies becomes a masterpiece with the right sauces.
• Seek Buddhist Zones: Areas around temples are always safe bets for pure vegetarian (chun su) food.
• Connect with Locals: The younger generation is often more aware of veganism. Don’t hesitate to use translation apps to chat with friendly restaurant owners—your interest in their local ingredients will be met with enthusiasm.

Guiyang challenges and delights in equal measure. It’s a destination that doesn’t just accommodate a plant-based lifestyle; it introduces you to a centuries-old culinary tradition where plants were always the starring act. From the fiery, fermented depths of a sour soup to the delicate craft of a Buddhist zhai meal, your weekend will be a delicious discovery of how a region’s geography and culture can create a vegan-friendly cuisine unlike any other on earth. Your taste buds will thank you, and your travel memories will be forever flavored with the unique, pungent, and unforgettable taste of Guizhou.